How to Do It

Some jobs require that you remove the centreplate from the boat. First you’ll need to take off the centre plate casing top board, and then there are two ways to remove the centreplate itself.

Float the boat in approximately 600 mm of water. Drop the centre plate down, remembering to detach the block and tackle off the end of the centre plate. The centre plate will hit the beach/shore at 600 mm. This is about the angle that the tapered slot in the centre plate becomes vertical, so you are able to wriggle the centre plate out vertically and draw it out into the boat. You’ll be able to feel from the plate position when it’s ready to slide off the pin.

The more difficult method is having to have the boat ashore on pads or tyres, tilting the boat at 90 degrees horizontally, and wriggle the plate out that way into the boat.

Go for floating it if possible, then you can push the boat out slightly if the angle is not good. It sounds difficult, but once you think it through it’s easy.

Remember that a centreplate weighs about 50kg so although it’s possible to do on your own, it’s easier and safer with two people.

To all intents and purposes this is a sound-looking engine bracket. But take a good look at this ‘hidden issue’ and what to look out for on your boat.

This following account relates to one of my charter Luggers, operated by Dragon Drascombe in the South Ionian Sea this past summer of 2022.

Lugger Ellie has been a part of my Lugger fleet since 2017 and seen more than 1200 hours of engine use over this period of charters, with these 4 stroke engines hung on the Iroko transom bracket.

It has always been a concern of mine that these heavy engines are supported by the transom bracket and just 4 x 10 mm bolts connecting it to the boat transom moulding, even though I check on the nut tightness regularly.

On a cleaning and maintenance day this past summer I happened to notice a movement in the top of the transom board when the engine was put into forward gear, the bracket ‘dipped’ back from the hull moulding slightly. I also checked with the engine off by pulling the top of the engine case back and yes, there was movement in the Iroko bracket itself.

Hmm this is not good!! Potentially could result in a serious problem. Out offshore under engine with lots of power required to get back in gusty, heavy windy conditions, and the thrust of the engine could rip the bracket off its two top bolts. Not very clever at all. So, it was a case of diving inside the Lazerette and removing the 4 nuts and washers, remembering it’s in the South Ionian Sea at 38C plus in the boat yard!

It’s a procedure for a whippet, lying on one’s side on the floor of the narrow cramped Lazarette with both hands outstretched removing the nuts off the threaded bolts, then wriggling back to extricate one’s body from the opening of the Lazarette in order to straighten up. It’s a job I’ve done on numerous occasions when rebuilding Luggers in Wales, but not in tropical temperatures.

So what did I find one might ask?

These clearly show the enlarged two top holes in the glass fibre moulding of the transom which have been eroded by the movement and pressure from washer behind.

The lower holes had not been subjected to this wear, it’s the weight of the engine combined with the thrust from the long leg of the engine that puts so much pressure and leverage on the two top bolts.

One significant observation was that the thickness of the transom moulding in the area of contact with the engine mounting bracket was varying from 2 to 5 mm only, very thin indeed for such a heavy engine to be mounted on, given the movement created by the thrust of the engine.

One could cut a block in this enlarged area behind as a packer then add a bigger washer!! On reflection this would only be a temporary solution.

The long term solution was to not only affect a glass and resin repair but to add strength and backing support to the inside of the transom moulding, it’s clear that the thickness of this area is not sufficient and well below a safe and acceptable standard.

Here we start with two sections of 12 mm marine ply, the width and length of the internal face of the transom moulding and well oversize strips of heavy weight chopped strand mat. This accompanied by the requisite resin, containers and brushes to wet out the mat.

We now need to bond these ply packer / strengthening sections to the inside face so they are secure whilst applying the bonding glass mat and resin to them, with lots of overlapping onto adjacent areas of the deck moulding.

Always allow adequate time for the resin to cure, remembering one has to get back into this cramped and confined area to cog up the nuts and holding washers. The fumes that this Polyester resin omits are quite significant, so be careful!

With the engine bracket now in position, I have added a different bracket, the original has signs of stress cracks between the 2 top bolt holes, it’s now a matter of drilling through the Iroko bracket and then through the original glass fibre moulding plus this additional marine ply packer support which has been glassed in. You will note the extra large ‘Penny ‘ washers that I have used to spread the load and pressure.

For future reference, I will be working through my charter Luggers and adding this modification to the inside of the hull moulding. Also, my future rebuild of Luggers will include this additional modification.

When I get orders in from Lugger and Longboat owners for a replacement Iroko transom bracket I will be advising them to carry out this modification, and these two marine ply packers / strengthening I will now have in stock as a standard part at no extra cost to the transom bracket.

All’s well that ends well, but this could have been a serious issue for my Lugger charter clients in the South Ionian Sea.

The two stern aft-deck seats on the early Luggers have always been my preference for having access to the Lazarette storage area, rather than the face fitted ‘Tea tray’ that followed it with the Mk2 Lugger onwards.

However, there were several issues in their manufacture. Firstly, and for my Luggers with the Mainsheet traveller tube fitted across the beam of the boat as opposed to the older version where there was just a slack wire from side to side to act as a traveller for the Mainsheet block, the glass fibre moulded seats would not easily slide in and out under the traveller tube, note in pic 1 how close the tube is to the seat.

Another downside was their size and weight to have inside the cockpit, leaving the possibility of tripping over one if left on the floor boards, or in my application with Dragon Drascombe Luggers in the South Ionian Sea people without shoes on could easily damage their feet if accidentally in contact with this moulded seat.

So it was time to rethink this design whilst keeping this access from the topside and having a much easier seat to access.

To start, in the first picture I have cut away the upstand flange of the deck internal moulding, which leaves me with just a flat surface.

The second picture shows the completed framework in white that I have made to sit on this flat surface of the internal deck moulding. This framework which is bonded into the internal moulding allows a seat to sit on its top surface, the seat being flush with the aft deck area.

I have made these 2 deck seats out of Iroko and Ash and protected with just Teak Oil. Yes this oil does burn out slowly and will require a rub over from time to time. As an example, my Lugger Angie has had two summer charter seasons out in the South Ionian Sea. The first picture shows her as she was in late September 2022 having been used for 5 months and then the second within a week after a good clean and re-oil pic. This is very good considering the constant use and time subjected to these harsh marine conditions, sun, wind and salt water.

To make these Lazarette areas more useful and dry, I have made 6 mm marine ply raised floors, some 80 mm at the keel line off the floor bottom; there is always a drop of water sloshing around to the aft of the boat, so it’s good to have a dry area for storage.

I am in the process of jigging up this modification so it can be manufactured as a kit for your own home fitting, for those with suitable skills.

However, for those who would prefer this modification to be carried out professionally, Dragon Design at NP22 4 LA could undertake this work in just 3 days maximum, cost on application with a few photographs of your boat please.

This is a great modification to the MK1 Lugger